Natural Hair VS Relaxed Hair

Natural hair  VS Relaxed hair

Which one is better???

Can you believe that in this day and time we are debating which one is better and  healthier. I am not opposed or for one over the other.  But there are some myths floating around that one is better than the other or if you wear your hair in a certain state it's not healthy!

I have been on both teams and loved it!!!  This all began from a couple of days ago I heard two beautiful young ladies having a deep, overly dramatic conversation about why each one of them choose to wear their hair in a particular state. The conversation went as follow:

 Natural Chic: I don't do relaxers because they will take your hair out!

Relaxed Chic : I can't do that natural thing those products are just way too expensive! And I am not about that detangling life!!

But she's rocking a Doney & Bourke handbag!!! But don't want to pay for hair products.I know they don't cost $200.00!!! *I digress**

Natural Chic : I love myself the way God made me!!! And I will not conform to someone else  standard of beauty!!!

I laugh because she had acrylic nails and wearing lashes! I don't think God made you that way!!

**I digress**

Relaxed Chic : I love myself also!! I'm not conforming to anyone or anything!! I just don't want to look like that(points to her beautiful full fro)! And girl I love my sleek bob!!!

First of all I must say I was shocked and a little disappointed at both ladies. They both was missing the point whether your hair is NATURAL or RELAXED  if you do not take care or your Hair & Scalp both will be BALD!!!!!! Regardless of what state the hair is in Maintenance is a Must!!

Next, lets talk about HAIR! Hair at its normal pH  (potential hydrogen) level is between 4.5 to 5.5

When we do a chemical textured service (relaxer, texturizer) we alter the natural wave pattern of the hair, raising the pH level to an alkaline state in order to soften and swell the hair.  Before we go any farther lets discuss the different types of chemical textured services.

Relaxers:

Thio Relaxers- has a high pH level(above 10).  Thio Relaxers break disulfide bonds and soften the hair, and example of this is the infamous "Jerry Curl"

THIO RELAXER

Hydroxide Relaxers - has a very strong alkaline level over 13 on the pH level scale. Sodium Hydroxide, Potassium Hydroxide, Lithium Hydroxide

Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer

and guanidine hydroxide relaxers (box relaxers).

Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxer

All of those are Hydroxide relaxers that swell the hair up to 2 times its diameter.

Hydroxide relaxers breaks the disulfide bonds different than Thio relaxers. Hydroxide relaxers goes through a process of lanthionization which permanently straightens the hair.

Now that I gave you a very small lesson on chemical textured services, lets talk about Natural hair and what it needs to be healthy.  Human hair is divided into 2 parts: hair root and hair shaft

Hair root- the part of the hair located below the epidermis(outer layer of skin).

Hair shaft- the portion of the hair that projects above the epidermis.

Some may feel that with Natural hair they hair grows much faster because they are not styling or messing with it as often, but that is not necessarily true!! What really is happening is the hair retention rate has increased.

Hair Growth happens in 3 phases

Anagen- know as the growth  phase. This is when the cells are actively made in the hair follicle.

Catagen - the stage when the follicle canal shrinks and detaches from the dermal papilla (cone shaped elevation at the base of the hair follicle that fits into the hair bulb)

Telogen- know as the resting phase,the final phase. During this phase the hair sheds or just remain in place waiting for the Anagen phase to begin.  This phase lasts approx. 3 to 6 months.

There is Maintenance that must be done to Natural and Relaxed hair.  Cleansing of the SCALP and HAIR. Product build-up on the hair and scalp can stop the hair from growing, which can lead to a scalp disorder that can contribute to hair loss.

Hair needs to me Conditioned. Conditioner is for your hair not necessarily your scalp. Conditioner is a chemical agent applied to the Hair to deposit protein or moisture to help restore the hair's strength.

Now their are scalp conditioners that contain moisture and emollients(aka hair grease).

Next all hair needs to be trimmed to get rid of split ends.  If split ends are not attended to they can split all the way up the hair shaft causing breakage.

Moisture and Protein are also needed for both Relaxed and Natural hair!! Moister and Protein needs to be at a healthy balance.  Too much moisture will make the hair weak and become very vulnerable to breakage. Too much protein will make the hair too strong resulting in dry brittle hair which will make the hair break.

So now that I pointed out the REQUIREMENTS of HAIR CARE!!! If you do not take care of your hair RELAXED or NATURAL it will FALL OUT!!!!!

Natural hair is not healthier or better than Relaxed hair, and Relaxed hair is not healthier or better than Natural hair.

They both need the same care to promote HEALTHY HAIR and HAIR GROWTH!!!!

So ladies just embrace your preference and respect the others decision. 

As India Arie state "I AM NOT MY HAIR!!"

Have a blessed day!!

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